oops│時尚觀點

時尚|老佛爺Karl Lagerfeld:我只是一個工人,一生與時尚為伍。

香奈兒創意總監Karl Lagerfeld在巴黎病逝,享年 85 歲,據外電報導,他到人生最後一刻,念茲在茲的仍是時尚工作,因為由他掌舵的Fendi 2019秋冬系列即將登場。

Karl Lagerfeld晚年飽受疾病之苦,先前缺席香奈兒2019春夏高級訂製服的謝幕,如今迎來人生真正的謝幕,他的離去,也是一個時代的結束。

karl-portrait_2584188a.jpg
在一日的工作之後,看了許多朋友在時裝周與他的近距離分享,充滿不捨,於是打開朋友推薦多時,我卻一直還沒看的時尚紀錄片,在Netflix《7 Days Out》的紀錄片系列中「2018香奈兒高訂時裝秀」,帶到一場秀的幕前與幕後,也留下Karl Lagerfeld珍貴的工作紀錄,對時尚的視角,幽默而犀利,他雖然總是戴著墨鏡,看著時尚卻比誰都看得更清楚,1公分都要計較,每個細節都要一一審視。

Karl-Lagerfeld-1
這才明白,高級訂製服的迷人,其來有自。Karl Lagerfeld在紀錄片中提到1982年打算接手香奈兒時,外界不看好香奈兒,但他撐起了這個時尚王國,因為這部紀錄片,我才驚覺,原來我所認知的,所見的香奈兒時代是他所建構,也許我們喜歡的不只是香奈兒,而是Karl Lagerfeld執掌的香奈兒。

他接手時,我都還沒出生呢,因為Karl Lagerfeld讓香奈兒一直這麼迷人,這才讓品牌創辦人Gabrielle Chanel的精神活了下來。

virginie-viard-replace-karl-lagerfeld-chanel

不讓外界多加揣想,香奈兒官方公佈了繼任人選「Virginie Viard 」,時尚品牌有繼任者,而我們這一代的時尚掌舵者又會是誰來接手呢?高級訂製服的傳奇又能續寫多久呢。

8-1.jpg
#一個時代的結束
#KarlLagerfeld

Karl Lagerfeld(1933年9月10日-2019年2月19日)

出生於德國漢堡,14歲到巴黎工作,1955年因為一件外套被Pierre Balmain賞識成為設計助理,1958年擔綱Maison Jean Patou首席設計師,1964年成為Chloe設計總監,1965年,Karl Lagerfeld成為Fendi設計總監,1982年接任Chanel創意總監,在一片不好看好中,他曾說過:「我做過的設計,都是Coco Chanel絕對不會做的。」

Karl Lagerfeld稱Chanel是法國版本的他,Fendi則是義大利的他,而Karl Lagerfeld是他本人原汁原味,他説,「我在Fendi時會忘記我在其他地方做了些什麼,如同我在其他地方會忘記在Fendi做的事。所以我的Chanel沒有一點Fendi的影子。我也沒有一點個性——又或許,我有3種個性。」

52309223_720089495052504_2829389377883340800_n.jpg

Karl Lagerfeld在1983年正式接手香奈兒時,所有人都勸他「不要碰,它已死。」但他說:「事實上它是已經死了。但當我開創一個時裝系列,一切都煥然一新。」Karl Lagerfeld找出雙C、山茶花等代表符號,將鍊帶、珍珠等元素搬上時裝伸展台,賦予這些細節香奈兒精神,為香奈兒施展魔法,創造了屬於他的香奈兒時代。

一路走來,他的時尚地位無人得以撼動,他卻表示,「我只是一個工人,一生與時尚為伍。」在時尚面前,他收起了所有驕傲,只用作品來表達一切。歷時70年的時尚工作經驗,當代已無人能超越的地位,在時尚面前,他臣服並與之同行。

41t39ncd1zl._sx317_bo1204203200_

爆肥時期的他,緊緊抓住扇子,因為胖讓他沒有安全感,後來為了擠進Hedi Slimane設計的Dior Homme男裝,他發憤減重42公斤,還出了書《The Karl Lagerfeld Diet》分享瘦身之路。

karl-lagerfeld-5

瘦身後的他拋去扇子,也變得幽默,有趣的是拋去扇子,Karl Lagerfeld換上了露指皮手套和銀戒子,也許掌舵全世界時尚的他,對世界仍有一點惶惶不安的時候,這些配件,讓他在時尚呼風喚雨時,給了他安全感。

備註:本文圖取自網路

香奈兒在Karl Lagerfeld逝世後所發表的官方聲明:

「It is with deep sadness that the House of CHANEL announces the passing of Karl Lagerfeld, the Creative Director for the CHANEL Fashion House since 1983.

An extraordinary creative individual, Karl Lagerfeld reinvented the brand’s codes created by Gabrielle Chanel: the CHANEL jacket and suit, the little black dress, the precious tweeds, the two-tone shoes, the quilted handbags, the pearls and costume jewelry. Regarding Gabrielle Chanel, he said, “My job is not to do what she did, but what she would have done. The good thing about Chanel is it is an idea you can adapt to many things.”

A prolific creative mind with endless imagination, Karl Lagerfeld explored many artistic horizons, including photography and short films. The House of CHANEL benefited from his talent for all the branding campaigns related to Fashion since 1987. Finally, one cannot refer to Karl Lagerfeld without mentioning his innate sense of repartee and self-mockery.

Alain Wertheimer, CEO of CHANEL, said: “Thanks to his creative genius, generosity and exceptional intuition, Karl Lagerfeld was ahead of his time, which widely contributed to the House of CHANEL’s success throughout the world. Today, not only have I lost a friend, but we have all lost an extraordinary creative mind to whom I gave carte blanche in the early 1980s to reinvent the brand.”

Bruno Pavlovsky, President of Fashion at CHANEL, said: “Fashion show after fashion show, collection after collection, Karl Lagerfeld left his mark on the legend of Gabrielle Chanel and the history of the House of CHANEL. He steadfastly promoted the talent and expertise of CHANEL’s ateliers and Métiers d’Art, allowing this exceptional know-how to shine throughout the world. The greatest tribute we can pay today is to continue to follow the path he traced by – to quote Karl – ‘continuing to embrace the present and invent the future’.”

Virginie Viard, Director of CHANEL’s Fashion Creation Studio and Karl Lagerfeld’s closest collaborator for more than 30 years, has been entrusted by Alain Wertheimer with the creative work for the collections, so that the legacy of Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld can live on.

The House of CHANEL offers his family, relatives and friends its deepest condolences.」